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Christopher Kane: the Brand, comes into its own at London Fashion Week for AW16

Christopher Kane provided so many clothes to wear in his AW16 show that it was something of a shocking reminder of what a great fashion collection should be.If brilliant knits, useful bags, fabulous tailoring and a selection of shoes and boots to meet all a woman"s work, rest and play requirements is what happens when a designer is part bought out by a luxury conglomerate like Kering, as Kane was last year, then bring on the big players.

It was interesting to see Christopher Kane: the Brand ,coming into its own.And yet this didn"t feel like a mere exercise in merchandising.That"s because of the calibre of designer Kane is.His first real foray into obvious branding - a logo sweater rendered with a gothic type "K" (CK having been taken by another designer some time ago) simply looked like a fabulous and considered part of his story rather than something obviously commercial.

And it proved a comparatively sober garment alongside the highly decorated pieces that formed the rest of the collection.Exaggerated knitted cuffs, floating fluffy feathers, crocheted flowers, jewellery charms, appliqu??d satin roses, streams of ribbons - to say he used all the trimmings here is no exaggeration.It could have looked like Kane had got high on his own supply (of haberdashery) but these crafty embellishments didn"t distract from what lay beneath.

Rather it enhanced, turning this refined, 360 degree wardrobe offering of day and evening wear, separates, dresses and suits into something joyful, delectable and modern.

Developing his Outsider Art references from last season, Kane was inspired by hoarders or collectors, women creating their own visions of beauty at home with materials at their disposal: a collection of charms or silk appliqu??s, badges, colourful feathers (???maybe she"s got a parrot,??? he said after the show) and reams of ribbons.He wasn"t judging, he was celebrating the way an individual can fashion her own world.And in fact he"s keen to encourage it.???I like the idea of hacks,??? he said, revealing that the charms that came on claret and black coats and dresses would also be available to buy separately alongside the collection.

Inviting people into your vision via their own self-expression?Now that"s sophisticated branding.

Every look from the Christopher Kane AW16 show

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